The spicy garlic bread is to taste, and I serve this with either a chilled white wine or a bottle of cold beer. Be forewarned: The clams need to be cleaned, the sandy grit and residue from ocean dwelling removed, either by soaking in salty water or rinsing in a bowl. I tinkered in the kitchen for a few days, carefully taking notes until I got the flavors exactly as I wanted. So for this book, I took it as a challenge to develop my own version of steamed clams. From the pinhead-size specimens used in Vietnamese cooking to the giant guy that gave up its ghost to serve as decorations for Ivanka Trump’s Thanksgiving table, there are thousands of different species of clams that range in size, shape, and, of course, flavor. More recently, this memory has been updated by my friend, acclaimed chef Ludo Lefebvre, who serves mussels at his tiny bistro Petite Trois in Hollywood with a creamier sauce that gets more delicious with each bite. It wasn’t typical fare for a 7- or 8-year-old, but I spent the previous 11 months thinking about those clams and even more I thought about dipping fresh, hard-crusted bread into garlic-and- butter-flavored broth. We lived in Delaware at the time, and somewhere along the Pennsylvania Turnpike there was a restaurant where we always stopped, and every time I ordered the steamers. I love clams, and this love affair of mine has been going on since I was a little girl with my nose pressed against the backseat window of my parents’ car on family road trips.
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